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My house as a mid 1980's GE Gas furnace. Model Number BLU080E92481 Might be BL0080E92481 I am not sure as it is difficult to read.

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Brand', Partnership for Advanced Residential Retrofit August 2013, retrieved 2/27/2014, original source: NOTICE Available electronically at Available for a processing fee to U.S. Department of Energy and its contractors, in paper, from: U.S. Department of Energy Office of Scientific and Technical Information P.O. Box 62 Oak Ridge, TN 37831 Tel: 865.576.8401 email: mailto:reports@adonis.osti.gov. is a licensed home inspector, past chapter president of the Hudson Valley chapter of the American Society of Home Inspectors, an educator, and building failures researcher in Kingston, NY who can be reached at or at 845-339-7984. is principal of Hankey and Brown home inspectors, Eden Prairie, MN. Hankey is a past chairman of the ASHI Technical Committee and the ASHI Standards Committee.

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Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the. Also see our. 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. Tel: (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 Email:. The firm provides professional & &. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home.

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My house as a mid 1980's GE Gas furnace. Model Number BLU080E92481 Might be BL0080E92481 I am not sure as it is difficult to read.

Anyway, it's a standard natural gas 80,000 BTU/hr furnace. Anyone know where I can get an owners manual or service manual? GE told me that Trane bought them.

Trane has yet to respond. Not sure if they ever will. Some of the manuals on the Trane website for a similiar type furnace might be close enough though, if I can figure out which one to download.

Was curious if any of you had one, knew where I could get one, etc. Click to expand.This is Turtle. Well, the rheem 1986 to 1989 gas furnaces were running between 68% afue and 71% afue. The 71% afue was called the super high effient model all brands was running close. So change out a,at best, 71% afue for a 94+ afue furnace today. There is 23% of your heating cost / money being sent out the vent pipe. If 23% cheaper to run is not a problem for you, keep the old one and be happy.

Now on the blower you spoke about. Your speaking about the blower motor change out but i'm talking about the blower assembley parts which are not made any more and they don't have universial parts to replace them with. If you would have read slower, you would see Blower assembley parts and not blower motors as you thought i had said.

The Blower assembley parts, Heat exchangers, Burners assembley, vent Stack deverters, and last of all the burners theirself are not made any more. My house as a mid 1980's GE Gas furnace.

Model Number BLU080E92481 Might be BL0080E92481 I am not sure as it is difficult to read. Anyway, it's a standard natural gas 80,000 BTU/hr furnace.

Anyone know where I can get an owners manual or service manual? GE told me that Trane bought them.

Trane has yet to respond. Not sure if they ever will. Some of the manuals on the Trane website for a similiar type furnace might be close enough though, if I can figure out which one to download. Was curious if any of you had one, knew where I could get one, etc.

Click to expand.Get the furnace inspected. The heat exchanger on these crack in the back where the chamber narrows. Can readily be seen by removing the panel off the back of the furnace, unless it is installed against a wall. They also crack at the front opening of the burner chamber, the corner welds of the burner box have also been known to crack. The stamped dimples at the top of the heat exchanger have also cracked and rusted through. Burners for these may still be available, but be prepared to spend anywhere from $25 -$40 per burner they are not cheap.

Click to expand.It's even better than that. Using the 71% vs 94% you mention that would result in a fuel bill reduction of over 34%. In case anyone is interested, to find estimated fuel usage the formula is LYF. ((1/OE)-(1/NE)) LYF = Last Year's Fuel Usage OE = Old Unit Efficiency NE = New Unit Efficiency Replace a 71% furnace with an 80% unit will reduce a fuel bill of $1000 last year to $1000. ((1/.71) - (1/.80)) $1000. (1.408 - 1.250) $1000.158 = $158 annual savings Use a 94% instead of the 80% and save an additional $1000. ((1/.80) - (1/.94)) $1000.

(1.25 - 1.064) $1000.186 = $186 And it's a fairly safe bet the old unit isn't running at 71% any more. Actually a 70% efficiency (or whatever the Turtle said) doesn't bother me as it's a small 812 sq ft rowhome, and it heats up pretty quickly anyway. And I don't see any point in upgrading to something with better efficiency until I get some insulation. House was built in 1950 and has none. I don't see any reason to get a nice, new, efficient furnace than use it to death.

Makes more sense to get some foam (or something) in my walls and ceiling then think about the furnace. However, it seems to be in pretty good shape as far as I can tell. Works great, flame is blue, etc. Will put in on my mental list to have a new one pre-picked out in mind just in case. And I get service manuals for everything and fix just about everything myself. Furnace or not it doesn't scare me.

All too often so called 'professionals' know less than I do. Haven't you ever had an auto mechanic mess up something you could have done better yourself? I hate spending tons of money to hire people less compitent than myself when a good service manual will tell me what to do (clean & inspection kind of thing I'm sure I can do if I had instructions).

Plus schematic would be nice because I'd like to add a programmable thermostat and would prefer the self powered type but without having a schematic I think a battery powered one is a safer bet. Actually the 'I have service manuals for everything' and the 'I'd like the schematic' are what I'm really looking for. Even if I had a serious proeblem with it and wanted to hire a 'professional' I'd want to read through the service manual first and presumably have some sort of idea with respect to if the person who shows up knows what they are doing. It's even better than that. Using the 71% vs 94% you mention that would result in a fuel bill reduction of over 34%. In case anyone is interested, to find estimated fuel usage the formula is LYF.

((1/OE)-(1/NE)) LYF = Last Year's Fuel Usage OE = Old Unit Efficiency NE = New Unit Efficiency Replace a 71% furnace with an 80% unit will reduce a fuel bill of $1000 last year to $1000. ((1/.71) - (1/.80)) $1000.

(1.408 - 1.250) $1000.158 = $158 annual savings Use a 94% instead of the 80% and save an additional $1000. ((1/.80) - (1/.94)) $1000. (1.25 - 1.064) $1000.186 = $186 And it's a fairly safe bet the old unit isn't running at 71% any more.

Click to expand.So let me see. You have the following pieces of test equipment as well.

Combustion Efficiency/Carbon Monoxide Meter (Not a Kidde Nighthawk Alarm) semiannual calibration $200-$300, and the training to use and interpret the results. Gas pressure gauge or water manometer, ammeter, microammeter, thermometers, magnehelic gauge, draft gage, assorted mirrors including one that is 1/4' x 1-3/16' x 24' for viewing chambers, and if you happen to have a newer furnace with narrow chambers an optical scope. Yes there are those that take a 4 month course and proclaim themselves experts. The true experts on this forum continually seek and get training to improve their skills. The best thing that you can do is.

Develop a list of questions to ask contractors as what training they give their employees, do they use combustion/co meters? Have their workers received training? Who gave their training? Ask your friends and relatives who they have work on their furnaces. Are they satisifed with the service they get?